Skin-Contact Stories: The Origin of Orange Wine
There’s something quietly rebellious about orange wine.
It doesn’t follow the rules. It’s neither red nor white. It sits somewhere in the in-between, copper-hued and full of contradiction. And maybe that’s exactly why people are falling in love with it.
In recent years, Orange Wine has emerged as a new trend, appearing on wine bar menus and being discussed in sommelier circles. However, its origins trace back centuries to the clay amphorae of Georgia.
What is Orange Wine?
What makes it “orange” isn’t oranges at all. Instead, it’s white grapes that have been fermented in contact with their skins, like the process used for red wine. This skin contact is crucial. It imparts a warm, amber hue to the wine and creates a structure that is vastly different from the crisp whites with which most of us are familiar. There’s tannin, texture, and grip. Sometimes it’s cloudy. Often, it’s wild. Always, it’s a conversation.
The Georgian Legacy: 8,000 Years of Winemaking
To understand the origins of orange wine, we must travel back nearly 8,000 years to the country of Georgia, nestled between Europe and Asia in the Caucasus region. Archaeological evidence suggests that Georgians were fermenting grapes as early as 6000 BCE, making theirs one of the oldest winemaking cultures on Earth.
What’s particularly remarkable is the use of QVEVRI (“Kev-ree”) large clay amphorae buried under the ground to maintain a stable temperature. Winemakers would place crushed white grapes, including the skins, seeds, and sometimes stems, into these qvevri and allow them to ferment naturally for months. The result? A deep, robust wine with rich tannins, earthy flavours, and an orange hue. This traditional method is still practiced in Georgia today and is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The Modern Revival: Italy and Slovenia
Fast forward to the 1990s, when a group of winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy and across the border in Slovenia began to revive these ancient methods. Pioneers like Josko Gravner, Stanko Radikon, and Dario Princic rejected the industrialisation of modern winemaking and sought to reconnect with traditional, natural approaches.
They began fermenting white grapes on their skins, using extended maceration and minimal intervention, often aging the wines in large clay amphorae inspired by Georgian qvevri. The results were bold, unusual wines with oxidative notes, herbal aromas, and a striking appearance. The term “orange wine,” coined by the British wine importer David A. Harvey, began to take hold among sommeliers and natural wine lovers.
Amber in the Ash: Orange Wine from Lanzarote
Orange wines are gaining popularity around the world, including in Lanzarote. El Grifo was one of the first wineries to introduce this style of wine on the island in 2017. The distinctive orange wine is made from highly aromatic Moscatel grapes sourced from over 100-year-old vines, which are planted in chabocos, hand-dug pits in the solidified lava that enable grapevines to thrive in extreme conditions.
This wine showcases floral aromas of orange blossom and rose, complemented by notes of candied fruit, citrus peel, and a hint of dried herbs. It is now available in our online shop.
Savouring Orange Wine: Food pairing
Orange wines stand out for their boldness, which makes them a fantastic partner for foods that can be challenging to pair with traditional wines. Their tannins and acidity create a dynamic balance that complements intense and complex dishes.
For example, the natural tannins in orange wine help cut through rich, spicy foods like curries and Indian cuisine, cleansing the palate between bites and enhancing the overall experience. Similarly, the bright acidity and slight sourness of orange wine beautifully match fermented flavours found in many Asian dishes, such as the tangy kimchi of Korean cooking.
Cheese lovers will also find orange wines a rewarding companion. The structure and tannins can stand up to aged, pungent cheeses, while the wine’s aromatic complexity highlights the cheese’s nuanced flavours, creating a harmonious tasting experience.
Thanks for reading,
Alessandra